Quilt Piecing With Curves

The Cove Quilt pattern uses several circles as focal points in the middle of each block. If you are new to sewing curves and circles, these circles may terrify you. I’m here to guide you (slowly, ever so slowly) into tackling these daunting curves.

Getting Started

First, let’s start by remembering anyone can sew curves and even do it well. If you have never sewn a circle, you will certainly be able to soon. You may need to give yourself a little pep talk before you begin.

Next, a good way to start with curves is through play. It never occurred to me that curves and circles should be intimidating. When I started quilting, I only pieced in an improv style. I would throw any odd combination of squares, triangles, and circles together. My curves were far from perfect, but they allowed me to practice sewing around rounded edges. Because of this free play, I was easily able to tackle curves the first time I came across them in a pattern.

The Basics

Before you begin, it is helpful to understand the measurements when sewing circles or curves. The quarter circle, half circle, or full circle piece is always 1/2″ larger than the inset background piece in which you have cut out the coordinating quarter, half, or full circle. This is helpful if you are making circles without a template in a pattern. You can find circle templates at most sewing stores that will also follow these measurements. This easy template by Creative Grids is what I typically use. However, if you understand circle measurements, you can create your own templates at home. I have used many different bowls to make circles and half circles for quilts that do not have a template.

You will need to also consider the seam allowance depending on what shape you are starting with. If you are using a quarter circle with the goal of making a full circle, you will have two areas to add the 1/4″ seam allowance. On each straight side of the quarter circle, you will need to add 1/4″. For example, let’s say you are using a 4″ circle. Cut into fourths, each straight side would measure 2″. Add 1/4″ to each straight side so it measures 2 1/4″. For a half-circle template, you would need to add the 1/4″ seam allowance on the one straight edge.

Tips for Sewing Curves

Now that you have given yourself a pep talk and you know the basics of how to sew curves, let’s dive into the tips.

Here is my quick list of tips for sewing curves:

Create pressed lines for matching
Use pins (or don’t if it isn’t working for you)
Use a short stitch length (2.0)
Go Slow

Tip 1: Create pressed lines for matching. In the Cove quilt pattern, I use half circles to create full circles. As you can see below, for each half circle and inset piece from the background, I create seams for matching. To do this, I fold each piece in half and then in half again. This creates three pressed lines in each piece. Each of these lines will be marking points for pinning.

Half circle and inbound half circle background are cut. The half circle is larger than the half circle cut out.

Tip 2: Use pins to sew even curves. I have sewn curves both ways – with and without pins. It is certainly possible to make good circles without pins, and if that is what works for you then go for it. However, I have found my results are consistently better when I pin. I use the pressed lines (discussed above) to align where to pin. I line up each pressed line on the half circle with a corresponding pressed line on the background. Once I begin sewing, I try to make sure that I am on track at every spot I have pinned. If I get off track, I just remove a pin and adjust. It’s ok to have to adjust; it should not ruin the final result.

Half circle and inset half circle pinned together along pressed lines.

When you are finished, if your half circle isn’t perfectly in place with the inset background, you can trim to square it up. Whenever I have a half circle or circle in a pattern, I make sure there is extra on the background square for trimming. If you use a pattern that does not have extra, I would recommend adding an inch to each side of the outside square or rectangle.

Last, I have learned one trick that has greatly improved my circles. When pinning the ends of the half circle to the background, I make sure the fabric ends align flush. You can see this in the images above. I used to just make sure the tip of the half circle was pinned to the tip of the inset circle on each end. This led to some half circles not being squared up well. Making this one small change when pinning has greatly improved my circles.

Tip 3: Use a short stitch length. A short stitch length allows your stitches to more easily form a curve. Think about tracing a circle. There is never a spot where you have a straight line. So, the longer the stitch length, the longer the straight line. A short stitch length allows the seam to curve. I wouldn’t go much under 2.0 mm just in case you need to seam rip.

Tip 4: Go slow. This seems obvious but can be difficult for those of us (it’s me) who love to zoom through a quilt. Circles take time and practice. Using a slow pace will reduce how many wonky half circles you have to seam rip and redo.

Are You Ready?

Now all that’s left is to give it a try and find out how much you love sewing with curves. I’d love to hear your results. Leave a comment on this post or send me an email.